Your scalp is skin
Every hair grows from a follicle in your scalp, and that skin makes oil, sheds old cells and sweats like skin anywhere else. When things are in balance, you barely notice it. Tightness, itching, flaking or soreness are its way of asking for attention.
Good scalp care comes down to three things: cleansing gently and thoroughly, avoiding habits that irritate or pull, and protecting it from the sun. None of it is complicated, and most of it fits into what you already do on wash day. Think of it as part of your skin care routine, just hidden under your hair.
Wash for your scalp, not the calendar
There's no single right schedule. The American Academy of Dermatology suggests washing based on how oily or dirty your hair gets, so someone with straight hair and an oily scalp may shampoo daily, while dry, curly or thick hair can be washed as needed, at least every two to three weeks. The same page notes that flakes sometimes come from not washing often enough.
Put shampoo on the scalp itself and massage with your fingertips, never your nails. Rinse a little longer than feels necessary, because shampoo or conditioner left behind can leave the scalp itchy or coated. Comfortably warm water, rather than hot, is kinder to both your scalp and your hair.
Buildup, sweat and Florida heat
Styling products, dry shampoo, oils and sweat all collect at the roots. Now and then, a clarifying shampoo, which is a stronger cleanser that lifts away residue, can reset things. It can be drying, so think of it as an occasional step rather than a weekly one. Hair that feels heavy, limp or waxy right after washing is a common sign it's time.
In a hot, humid summer, a sweaty scalp is part of life. A rinse with water after a hard workout or a long day outside keeps sweat from sitting at the roots for hours. Under braids, twists or other protective styles, ask your stylist how to keep the scalp clean without loosening the style.
Sun, tension and heat
Your part and any thinning areas can burn just like your nose. The AAD's dandruff care page recommends shade and a wide-brimmed hat, and for thinning hair, a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher on the scalp, noting that powders and sprays are easier to apply. Changing your part now and then also spreads the exposure.
Constant pulling is hard on follicles. The AAD explains that hairstyles that pull, such as tight ponytails, buns, braids and extensions worn often, can lead to a type of hair loss called traction alopecia, and that a style that hurts is too tight. Keep hot tools off the scalp, and tell your stylist if your scalp is sore, sunburned or irritated before any color or chemical service.
Flakes and itching
Some flaking is common. The AAD describes dandruff as small pieces of dry skin flaking off the scalp, and its dandruff page explains how over-the-counter dandruff shampoos are used, including letting some sit for a few minutes and, for curly or coily hair, applying them only to the scalp because they can be drying.
Flakes can have several causes, though, and some of them look alike. If regular washing and a change in routine don't help, a dermatologist can tell you what's behind them. Notes or photos of when it flares can help that appointment go faster.
When to see a dermatologist
A stylist sees your scalp up close and may point out something worth checking, but diagnosis and treatment belong with a doctor. The sooner a change is looked at, the more options you usually have.
Mention any new products, medications or recent chemical services so your doctor has the full picture. Book a dermatologist if you notice any of the following.
- Itching or flaking that doesn't settle with regular washing
- Redness, sores, bumps or thick, scaly patches
- Pain, tenderness or burning
- New thinning, a widening part or patches of hair loss
- Broken hairs or a receding hairline where styles pull
- A scalp that suddenly reacts after a new product or salon service
Questions
How often should I wash my scalp?
It depends on your hair and how oily your scalp gets. Oily scalps may need daily washing, while dry, curly or thick hair is often washed less, at least every two to three weeks.
Is a flaky scalp the same as a dry scalp?
Not always. Flakes can have several causes that look alike, so if they don't improve with regular washing, a dermatologist can tell you what's going on.
Can a hairstylist treat scalp problems?
No. A stylist can notice changes and suggest you get them checked, but diagnosing and treating scalp conditions is a dermatologist's job.
Do I need sunscreen on my scalp?
A hat and shade are the simplest protection. The AAD suggests sunscreen on the scalp for thinning hair, and powder or spray formulas are easier to apply.
Sources: American Academy of Dermatology: Tips for healthy hair · American Academy of Dermatology: How to treat dandruff · American Academy of Dermatology: Hairstyles that pull can lead to hair loss
This guide is general information, not medical advice. For scalp, skin or hair-loss concerns, see a dermatologist.